Sunday, May 29, 2011

Short-Sleeved Cable Wrap

Difficulty:



Time-Consuming:



Here is a lovely cabled wrap, if I do say so myself. Once again, selfish as I am, I made this for me. I am roughly a size 6 (US sizes), but since this is a wrap, and the sleeves are quite roomy, I imagine it would fit up to a size 7-8 as well.

For this project, I used #4 medium worsted satin wool (182m/100g), 5.5mm needles, and a tapestry needle to stitch the pieces together.


Abbreviations Used in this Pattern:
sts = stitches

K = knit (k4 = knit 4 stitches)
P = purl (p4 = purl 4 stitches)
k2tog = knit 2 stitches together
skpsso = slip 1 stitch, knit 1 stitch, pass slipped stitch over knit stitch
p2tog = purl 2 stitches together
p2togtbl = purl 2 stitches together through the back of the loop.

k inc1 / p inc1 = knit or purl 1 stitch and increase by 1 stitch either by casting on another stitch or doing a double pull through when making the knit or purl stitch.



Back Piece:

Cast on 114 sts.

Rows 1-16: *k1, p1, repeat from * to end of row.

Row 17: knit.
Row 18: purl.
Row 19: knit.
Row 20: purl.

Row 21: k3, *begin row 1 of cable stitch pattern (refer to right image) and proceed with the rest of the 20 rows throughout the rest of the back piece. Repeat from * to last 3 sts. K3.

Continue to work back piece evenly until work reaches 14cm (about 5.5 inches), then do next front-side row as a decrease row: do 3rd and 4th sts as k2tog, and do 3rd and 4th last sts in row as skpsso.

Continue to do a decrease row every 6 rows 7 more times, then every 4 rows 9 more times (note: the decrease will eventually cut into some of the cable stitching).

Then, work back piece without decrease until it reaches 53cm/21 inches.

Next front-side row: Work as an increase row: do 2nd stitch and 3rd last stitch as k inc1. Continue to do increase row every 8th row 2 more times.

Follow last increase row with 1 purl row.

Shaping Armholes:

Bind off 5 sts from the beginning of the next 2 rows.

Then begin decreases on front-side rows: do 2nd and 3rd sts as k2tog, and do 2nd and 3rd last sts as skpsso. Do these decreases every front-side row 3 more times.

Next, work without decreases until the length of the work from the beginning of the armholes measures 20cm/8 inches.

Bind off 5 sts from the beginning of the next 2 rows. Do this 1 more time.

Next front-side row: bind off 6 sts, k8, bind off the next 22 sts (this is now the neck hole), knit.

purl-side row: bind off 6 sts, purl to 2 sts before the neck hole begins, p2togtbl. Using a separate yarn tail, do rest of the row as follows: p2tog, purl.

Work and bind off next row.




Right Front Piece:

Cast on 70 sts.

Rows 1-20: Same as in back piece.

Row 21: k8, *start cable stitch pattern. Repeat from * to last 8 sts. K8.

Work piece until it reaches 14cm/5.5 inches, and begin decrease row: 3rd and 4th last sts of front-side row done as skpsso. Continue to do a decrease row every 6 rows 7 more times, then every 4th row 9 more times.

**At the same time, when the last decrease along edge B is made, begin decreases along edge A as follows: do 3rd and 4th sts as k2tog. Repeat the decrease along edge A every other row 19 more times, then every 4 rows 5 times.

**Also, when work reaches 52cm/20.5 inches, begin increase along edge B: do 3rd last st of front-side row as k inc1. Do this increase every 8 rows 2 more times, followed by 1 purl row.

Shaping Armhole:
(Note: at this point, decreases are still being made along edge A)

At the beginning of the next purl row, bind off the 1st 5 sts.

Next row: make a decrease along edge B: do 2nd and 3rd last sts as skpsso. Do this decrease every other row 3 more times.

Then, continue working front right piece with the required decreases being made along edge A only.

When work from beginning of armhole measures 20cm/8 inches, bind off 5 sts from the beginning of the next 2 purl-side rows only. Then, on the 3rd purl-side row, bind off the 1st 6 sts.

Next row: Bind off.



Left Front Piece:

Cast on 70 sts.

First 14cm/5.5 inches: same as right front piece.

At 14cm/5.5 inches: begin decrease row: 3rd and 4th sts of front-side row done as k2tog. Continue to do a decrease row every 6 rows 7 more times, then every 4th row 9 more times.

**At the same time, when the last decrease along edge B is made, begin decreases along edge A as follows: do 3rd and 4th last sts as skpsso. Repeat the decrease along edge A every other row 19 more times, then every 4 rows 5 times.

**Also, when work reaches 52cm/20.5 inches, begin increase along edge B: do 2nd st of front-side row as k inc1. Do this increase every 8 rows 2 more times, followed by 1 purl row.

Shaping Armhole:
(Note: at this point, as with the right front piece, decreases are still being made along edge A)

At the beginning of the next row, bind off the 1st 5 sts.

Next front-side row: make a decrease along edge B: do 2nd and 3rd sts as k2tog. Do this decrease every other row 3 more times.

Then, continue working front left piece with the required decreases being made along edge A only.

When work from beginning of armhole measures 20cm/8 inches, bind off 5 sts from the beginning of the next 2 front-side rows only. Then, on the 3rd front-side row, bind off the 1st 6 sts.

Next row: Bind off.

Using a tapestry needle, stitch together the 2 front pieces to the back piece.



Neck/Collar:

With one of the knitting needles, pick up the stitches along edge A from both front pieces, as well as from along the neck area of the back piece. Holding the needle with the stitches so that you are facing the inside (purl-side) of the wrap, begin working the stitches all as one row as follows:

*k1, p1, repeat from *to end of row.

Row 2: (skpsso)x2, *k1, p1, repeat from * to last 4 sts, (k2tog)x2.
Row 3: (p2tog)x2, *k1, p1, repeat from * to last 4 sts, (p2togtbl)x2

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until collar is 8.5cm/almost 3.5 inches. Then, finish and bind off the next purl-side row.




Sleeves (make 2):
Cast on 42 sts.

Rows 1-9: *k1, p1, repeat from * to end of row.

Row 10: (p1, p inc1)x10, p2, (p inc1, p1)x10. There should now be 62 sts on the needle.
Row 11: knit.

Row 12: (p inc1, p3)x15, p inc1, p1.
Row 13: knit.
Row 14: purl.

Row 15: k3, start cable stitch pattern, and repeat it to the last 3 sts. K3.
Row 16: purl.

Continue to work sleeve evenly until it reaches 13cm/just over 5 inches. Bind off the 1st 5 sts from the beginning of the next 2 rows.

Next front-side row: decrease row: do 2nd and 3rd sts as k2tog, and do 2nd and 3rd last sts as skpsso. Continue to do decreases every 2 rows 2 more times, then every row 9 times.

Next 4 rows: make decreases twice at each end of every row instead of just once. Bind off the last of these rows.




Ties (make 2):

Cast on 3 sts.

Work in icord (see here for help), with each row as k1, p1, k1.

Continue in icord until ties measure about 60cm/just over 23 inches, and bind off.



Tie Loops (make 2):


Cut yarn tail about 61 cm/ 24 inches long. Bend the yarn and make a loop knot leaving one side 44cm (about 17.5 inches) long and the other side 17cm (about 6.5 inches) long.

Maneuver the longer end of the yarn around the shorter end to make "staircase" knots (see image below).
Continue knotting until there are about 3 inches of un-knotted yarn left, with which you will tie to the loop of the loop knot of the tie, after inserting each of the tie loop into the side of the wrap.

Where to attach the tie loops:

Attach one tie loop to the inside right of the wrap, along the seam at the point where the decreases going up along the seam end.
Attach the other tie loop to the outside left of the wrap, along the seam, at the point where the decreases going up along the seam end.

Where to attach the ties:

(Note: each tie is attached at their middle)
Attach each tie just below the point at which the collar begins on both the front right and front left pieces of the wrap.



Saturday, May 28, 2011

Cable #4

Row 1: knit 3, cable 1 under 1, cable 1 over 1, knit 3.
Row 2: purl.
Row 3: knit 2, cable 1 under 2, cable 2 over 1, knit 2.
Row 4: purl.
Row 5: knit 1, cable 2 under 2, cable 2 over 2, knit 1.
Row 6: purl.
Row 7: knit.
Row 8: purl.
Row 9: knit.
Row 10: purl.
Row 11: knit 1, cable 2 over 2, cable 2 under 2, knit 1.
Row 12: purl.
Row 13: knit 2, cable 2 over 1, cable 2 under 2, knit 2.
Row 14: purl.
Row 15: knit 3, cable 1 over 1, cable 1 under 1, knit 3.
Row 16: purl.


Friday, May 6, 2011

New Section

So, I have added, under "Knitting Projects", a new section: Stitch Index. Under this section, I will be cataloging different stitch designs, which, I hope, will give others ideas for their own pattern designs. Hopefully, the catalog will continue to grow as I discover or invent more stitch patterns. Creativity, ho!

Lacy Hairband

Difficulty:



Time-Consuming:



Here is a lovely, lacy hairband I designed for...holding back hair, obviously. I designed it to be tied at the base of the neck rather than as a complete circle, so that it was more adjustable to size, and, I think, more stylish
For this project, I used #4 medium-worsted satin wool, 5mm and 8mm needles.

Abbreviations used in this Pattern:

sts
= Stitches.
k = Knit: k4 would mean knit 4 stitches.
p = Purl: p4 would mean purl 4 stitches.
k inc1 = knit 1 and increase by 1 stitch (when knitting stitch, pull the right needle twice through loop before pulling the stitch off the needle, instead of just once).
p2tog = purl 2 stitches together.
p2togtbl = purl 2 stitches together through the back of the loop.
p3tog = purl 3 stitches together.
yo = yarn over: bring yarn around needle so that it will be knit/purled as a new stitch on the next row..


Knitting the Hairband:

With 5mm needles, cast on 5 sts.

Row 1: k1, p1, k1, p1, k1
Row 2: p1, k1, p1, k1, p1

Repeat rows 1 and 2 until work is at least 33cm long (I think that's about 12.5 inches). This is one of the ties of the hairband, so make this part longer if desired.

Next,

Front/Rightside (RS) Row: k1, k inc1, k1, k inc1, k1
Back / Wrongside (WS) Row: purl

RS: k1, (k inc1, k1)x3
WS: purl

RS: k2, k inc1, k1, (k inc1)x2, k1, k inc1, k2
WS: purl

RS: k2, k inc1, k1, k inc1, k4, k inc1, k1, k inc1, k2

Now switch to the 8mm needles.

i) WS: p2, (p3tog)x4, p4
ii) RS: k4, (yo, k1, yo)x4, k2
iii) WS: p4, (p3tog)x4, p2
iv) RS: k2, (yo, k1, yo)x4, k4

Repeat rows i) - iv) 12 more times.
Next, switch back to the 5mm needles.

WS: p2, p2tog, p1, p2tog, p4, p2tog, p1, p2tog, p2
RS: knit

WS: p2, p2tog, p1, (p2tog)x2, p1, p2tog, p2
RS: knit

WS: p1, (p2tog)x3
RS: knit

WS: p1, p2tog, p1, p2tog, p1

RS: k1, p1, k1, p1, k1
WS: p1, k1, p1, k1, p1

Repeat the last to rows until that part alone reaches the same length as the first tail end (at least 33cm/12.5 inches).

Bind off last row.

I suggest ironing out the hairband before wearing, as the lace stitch used is pretty elastic, and so prone to curling.

Lace #4

Row 1: k2, (k2tog, yo)x2, k2, (k2tog, yo)x2, k2
Row 2: purl

Lace #3

Row 1: knit
Row 2: p1, (p3tog)x4, p2
Row 3: k2, (yo, k1, yo)x4, k1
Row 4: p2, (p3tog)x4, p1
Row 5: k1, (yo, k1, yo)x4, k2

Lace #2

Row 1: p2, (p3tog)x4, p2
Row 2: k3, (yo, k1)x4, k1
Row 3: p1, (p3tog)x4, p3
Row 4: k4, (yo, k1)x4

Lace #1


Row 1: k1, k2tog, k4, yo, k3, yo, k4, skpsso, k1
Row 2: p1, p2togtbl, p3, yo, p5, yo, p3, p2tog, p
Row 3: k1, k2tog, k2, yo, k7, yo, k2, skpsso, k1
Row 4: p1, p2togtbl, p1, yo, p9, yo, p1, p2tog, p1
Row 5: k1, k2tog, yo, k11, yo, skpsso, k1
Row 6: p2, yo, p4, p2tog, p1, p2togtbl, p4, yo, p2
Row 7: k3, yo, k3, skpsso, p1, k2tog, k3, yo, k3
Row 8: p4, yo, p2, p2tog, k1, p2togtbl, p2, yo, p4
Row 9: k5, yo, k1, skpsso, p1, k2tog, k1, yo, k5
Row 10: p6, yo, p2tog, k1, p2togtbl, yo, p6

Cable #3

Row 1: k3, cbl 2 under 1, cbl 1 over 2, k3
Row 2: purl
Row 3: k3, cbl 1 under 2, cbl 2 over 1, k3
Row 4: purl
Row 5: knit
Row 6: purl
Row 7: knit
Row 8: purl
Row 9: k3, cbl 2 over 1, cbl 1 under 2, k3
Row 10: purl
Row 11: k3, cbl 1 over 2, cbl 2 under 1, k3
Row 12: purl

Cable #2

Row 1: k5, cbl 2 over 2, k3
Row 2: purl
Row 3: knit
Row 4: purl
Row 5: knit
Row 6: purl
Row 7: k3, cbl 2 over 2, k5
Row 8: purl

Thursday, May 5, 2011

Cable #1

Row 1: k1, p6, cbl 1 over 1, p6, k1
Row 2: Cbl 1 under 1, k4, cbl 1 over 1, cbl 1 under 1, k4, cbl 1 over 1
Row 3: p1, cbl 1 over 1, p2, cbl 1 under 1, p2, cbl 1 over 1, p2, cbl 1 under 1, p1
Row 4: k2, cbl 1 under 1, cbl 1 over 1, k4, cbl 1 under 1, cbl 1 over 1, k1
Row 5: p3, cbl 1 over 1, p6, cbl 1 over 1, p3
Row 6: k3, p2, k6, p2, k3
Row 7: p3, cbl 1 over 1, p6, cbl 1 over 1, p3
Row 8: k2, cbl 1 over 1, cbl 1 under 1, k4, cbl 1 over 1, cbl 1 under 1, k2
Row 9: p1, cbl 1 under 1, p2, cbl 1 over 1, p2, cbl 1 under 1, p2, cbl 1 over 1, p1
Row 10: cbl 1 over 1, k4, cbl 1 under 1, cbl 1 over 1, k4, cbl 1 under 1
Row 11: k1, p6, cbl 1 over 1, p6, k1
Row 12: p1, k6, p2, k6, p1

Knit and Purl #1

12-Stitch Repeat:
Row 1: k1, (yo, p3tog, yo, k2)x2, k1
Row 2: purl
Row 3: knit
Row 4: purl
Row 5: k2, yo, p3tog, yo, k2, yo, p3tog, yo, k1
Row 6: purl
Row 7: knit
Row 8: purl

Stitch Index

Knits and Purls
(Click image for stitch pattern)














Cables
(Click image for stitch pattern)

































Laces

(Click image for stitch pattern)